BlogOctober 23, 2012
Mics: Fake or Real or Knockoff
I have neverFirstly, here is a direct comparison of outer cosmetics between one of the fakes I received and a genuine one. Second, a video dissecting a genuine SM57 and a fake. Finally, a gearslutz user, Meirone, posted this: G for genuine, F for Fake.It's important to note that not all of the signs of a fake will always be present. Contacting Shure is a definitive route to identifying your mic. Additionally, my genuine mics have a blue dot, HOWEVER, I saw a lot that didn't. Edit: format! EDIT 2: Added some additional info.
- Weight: the G will be heavier then the F in few grams.
- Color: the G is very dark gray, almost black. The F is deep gray, brighter the th G.
- Logo: The G has the mode and brand name printed on a metal band. On the F it's a simple plastic sticker.
- Pouch: The G has half matt finish. The F will be bright and shiny.
- Screwing: The gap between the body and the had of the mic is almost 1mm in the G while in the F it's less the 0.5mm
- Wires: The G has yellow and green wires connecting the body and the head. As for the F, well....
- Connector: On the G you'll find the brand name and the wiring numbers (1,2,3) in the connector.
- Sound: The G is deeper then the F. The fake will usually have unpleasent high-mids.
- Signal: If you make an A/B test, you'll find the F louder the the G.
- Feedback: Due to the said above, the F is more likely to feedback.